Kunitz Archives – The Blog

Entries from September 2008

Small Victories

September 30, 2008 · 4 Comments

by Danielle

Yesterday was a horrible day at garderie for Joseph, when we pulled into the lobby he did not want to get out of the stroller. He cried and said, “No school, Joseph go home with Mommy! Joseph no like school!” Somehow I nudged him into the center after loads of coaxing. I was supposed to leave him there for 30 minutes (we’re trying to work our way up to 4 hours!) and I only managed to step away for 5 minutes to go to the bathroom, and he was in total meltdown while I was away. The caregivers assured me it was completely normal behavior.

It’s additionally challenging because while I am trying deal with Joseph, I am wearing Rachel in a baby carrier which gets very tiring. Or she is in a portable carseat and I’m prying the other children off of her while I try to give Joseph my full attention. Fortunately Rachel is very easygoing and smiley through all of this commotion.

Today Joseph was fairly agreeable at first and even said “bonjour” to the caregivers as we arrived at the center. But he was emotionally fragile and I stuck around for 30 minutes before attempting to leave.

I had been using cookies as a bribe (is that wrong?), saying, “Joseph if you are a good boy and don’t cry, I’ll have a cookie for you when I come back.” As I tried to leave he cried very hard and said, “No mommy go!” I said, “But Joseph don’t you want a cookie? If you keep crying you can’t have that cookie!” and with great difficulty he’s stop crying and say tearfully, “Joseph want cookie!”  Five seconds later he’d bawl again. Poor kid was trying to hard to keep it together, I felt terrible for him.

Ultimately I managed to slip away and when I returned an hour later, I was amazed that I did not hear him crying from the lobby. Audrey said he cried for a while, but then he played with clay, joined the singing circle, and read a book with another caregiver. He had even been smiling. Yay Joseph! Needless to say, he got the cookie.

And so it goes. Our adaptation period was supposed to end tomorrow, but it seems that we are going to keep this up for the rest of the week and see what happens. At least I think that is what we are doing, the ladies at the center don’t speak English (except Audrey who speaks a teeny bit, just enough to help us out when we are stuck). I’m sure the language issue is part of what makes the transition hard for Joseph. On the plus side, he is already learning some French words.

So far my regular routine is to take Joseph to garderie, then to a playground, home for lunch and quiet time (aka a nap, which he rarely takes), then a late afternoon bath, and dinner when Dan gets home around 6pm. The only wildcard is what I do for my precious 30 or 60 minutes while Joseph is at garderie. I often step around the corner to a grocery store or an open air market but sometimes the markets are extremely crowded in the mornings. As in, you can’t move down the aisles (remember, i have a stroller) and little old ladies are shoving you aside. Sometimes I will suffer through it to score some (huge!) artichokes, fruit, pate or fish.

Today I treated myself to coffee at the corner cafe. The regular waiter is extremely surly but today I got a very pleasant man from Senegal who was quite chatty. He is a fan of the US and told me how much he likes New York City and San Francisco, and that there are a lot of Americans in our neighborhood now. I read my French/English dictionary while Rachel napped.

The downside is that a cup of coffee is almost 4 euros. Did I mention that (part time) garderie costs 4 euros a WEEK?  Oh the other downside is that I find it virtually impossible to get coffee the way I want it. I like a decaf, cafe au lait. I can’t get that to save my life. I’m brought either a black, decaf coffee, or what they call “cafe creme,” a cafe au lait but with caffeine. And maybe it’s just me, but French coffee seems at least 10 times stronger than at home. Now I understand why my mother complains about weak American coffee.

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Picka Up

September 25, 2008 · 2 Comments

by Danielle

My mother left Paris almost one week ago and I miss her dearly. I might have neglected to mention in a previous post that we ventured out to the neighborhood where she grew up (in the 11th arrondissement) and it was a surprise to see that her parents’ butcher shop no longer exists. The apartment building is still there but the ground floor commercial space is glassed in and looks very anonymous. Mom seemed unphased, but I was sorry it was gone. 

We walked around the corner to a square Mom used to frequent as a young girl during the war, where the occassional air raid siren would call her back home.  Today it has an elaborate playground and even ping pong tables, with locals enjoying a baguette and/or a cigarette (a smell you can’t escape in this town). We had lunch at a cafe next to the gorgeous Saint Ambroise church which Mom went to as a child. She recalled how the year she had her first communion involved the largest group of children (several hundred) in the church’s history, because it was the first time they started having communions again after the war ended.

I am very fond of the neighborhood, it has the classic French architecture I love, and a mellow vibe. A total contrast to our current neighborhood which is very lively but lacks charm.

In other news, Joseph got admitted into childcare program (known as a halte garderie) which he will attend three mornings a week. This could be good for both of us, as it will give him a chance to play with other children and also perhaps pick up a little of the French language. I will get a chance to venture out of the neighborhood or run errands, which are both very difficult when I have both children with me. 

This week has been Joseph’s “adaptation” period and today was the first time I left him at the center for one hour. He was okay when I left, but when I returned he was in the middle of a group teachers and students (singing songs), bawling his eyes out. He ran over to me with tears streaming down his face sobbing, “Picka up, picka up!” He would not let me put him back down on the ground for a long time. It was a very sad sight indeed.  Somehow I have to find the courage to take him back again tomorrow!

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La Tour Eiffel

September 20, 2008 · 2 Comments

We’ve been in Paris for over a month and we finally went to the Eiffel Tower today.  It wasn’t particularly high on our to-do list, but Joseph has developed an obsession with it (one that we did not fuel.)  It is great to see it from various vantage points around the city, and we live in a neighborhood on a hill where we get nice glimpses of it from a couple different spots.

the guys

Today’s outing was great, we took only one stroller and Joseph walked virtually the entire way: to the Metro, sat in a seat by himself on the train, walked on the other end.  We didn’t go up the tower but we walked around the base, and then found a playground a block away where we sat for a while.  Rachel was a dream, sleeping on the way there and back and waking up while we were sitting in the sun.

My favorite bit of trivia from the outing, which I got from a guide book this morning before we ventured out:  in the strongest winds the Eiffel Tower has never swayed more than four inches, but it expands and contracts up to six inches between the hottest and coldest days of the year.

The weather has been amazing – it is colder than we are used to this time of year, but the nice days like today are incredible.  We went out to a neighborhood bar with the kids this evening so we could enjoy the last bit of daylight.  The whole day seemed like a typical relaxed Parisian experience – seeing sites, getting around by Metro, eating sandwiches on a bench, drinking wine at an outdoor bar.  (The bar we went to is one that we’ve been to a couple times now – I love the name:  “Le Week-End.”)

Life hasn’t been all that easy though.  Monique left this morning after helping us plow through many French bureaucratic obligations that were extremely tedious and tiring.  It wasn’t too fun and we were really grateful for the help and wish she could have had a more relaxing trip.  So we will try to coerce her to come back as soon as she can.  Danielle and Monique dragged the kids to many appointments and waited for hours in different offices getting us set up with legal/health/social-related services.  The good news is that they made tons of progress, and got Joseph into a part-time pre-school that he’ll soon be going to.

The boxes that we shipped to ourselves three months ago finally arrived.  We really needed them with the weather turning, and all the toys and books for the kids that were sorely missed.  So that feels like the last major step in our move to Paris – we’re now here, our stuff is here, and we’re pretty settled.

the girls

I’ve had most of the week off, which has been nice for the family time.  I have tried to take Joseph off of Danielle’s hands so that we can go have fun, and let her and Monique relax with Rachel.  Last weekend we went to Les Halles – it was my first experiment with having him walk on a major outing even though I did have the stroller with me.  He must have gone a mile or two total, not to mention the playground time at Les Halles.  We’re also getting him back into a regular nap routine, something that was much needed and is helping everyone’s sanity, including his.

Finding time to blog has been tough but I’ll continue to try.  Here are a few more recent pictures that I just uploaded to our site.

One final thing:  a few days ago was our fourth anniversary.  I felt really bad not doing anything to mark the occasion, especially since the transition here has been difficult. 

September 2004

September 2004

But hopefully as we continue to ease into our lives here we’ll find opportunities to get out and explore restaurants and night life and not just playgrounds and sites.  Here is a flashback picture from the first time we came to Paris together – it was the first day of our Honeymoon and we’d been up for probably 36 hours, but we weren’t tired so we hopped on the metro impulsively and ended up at the Eiffel Tower late on our first night here.

Also – on a related note, four years of marriage to Danielle makes me eligible for French citizenship.  Stay tuned for details on how that plays out.

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our international infant

September 8, 2008 · 2 Comments

By Dan
My childhood pediatrician, who is also a family friend, told me recently that he thinks that human beings are at their peak at the age of four months.  The four-month checkups were always the ones he looked forward to the most.  Infants are developed enough at four months to be wide-eyed, alert, happy, and playful. 
Rachel and Alisa snoozing on the couch

Rachel and Alisa snoozing on the couch

I guess after four months – according to him – we start to become self-centered, manipulative, willful, and it all goes down hill from there.

Anyway it is hard to argue with that when looking at Rachel, who turns four months old tomorrow. She has been cute and happy and tolerant of all of our moves. In four months she has already maintained, I think, seven different home addresses. That is bound to stabilize.

We’re enjoying visits this week from Monique, who is here for over two weeks, and Alisa, who was in London and took the train down for a couple days.  Thank God for our nice new apartment which is still a squeeze with two visitors but more than manageable. 

Monique, Danielle, Rachel - Place des Vosges

Monique, Danielle, Rachel - Place des Vosges

We’re actually very happy here, it is much better than the last place. 

I just bought the domain name rachelviolet.com for ten years, and at some point in the next ten years I may set up a web site for her, or at least I’ll have a good domain name to give her for her own email address when she is ready.

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I Want My Mommy

September 5, 2008 · 4 Comments

We moved into our new apartment on Sunday and are most pleased. It is a sunny, spacious (by Paris standards) abode just 5 blocks from our last place. Thanks to assistance from our new friend Xavier (who is on a short break from relief work in Sudan), moving was a piece of cake and Joseph has adjusted nicely.

My mother arrived on Wednesday and she was a sight for sore eyes. When I have dreamed of spending time in Paris it has always been imagined with her at the helm. This is her city after all, she was born here and grew up a few metro stops from our apartment. I look forward to strolling through the streets she grew up on and seeing the butcher shop her parents owned, and the church where she had her first Communion (Saint Ambroise on blvd Voltaire).

Naturally Mom came bearing gifts; puzzles for Joseph, clothes for Rachel (who is busting out of all that I’d packed- she’s huuuge) and some goodies for me too (Harper’s Bazaar and Allure magazines- ah… guilty pleasures).

Today we ventured through the rain to the Picasso Museum (3 metro stops away or perhaps a 25 minute walk). I’m a big fan and the museum did not disappoint. It is a lovely building, just the right size for lugging 2 kids around, and the collection has a nice mix of media  (I especially enjoyed seeing Picasso’s prints and sculptures). There was a display of casts the artist made of his hands- they were very small with stubby fingers. Elf hands. Who knew?

We returned to Belleville planning to visit a neighborhood bistro, but it was packed. Instead we went to the Vietnamese restaurant next to it (I thought this was Chinatown…?) and had Pho for lunch. Dan and I were in heaven (with flashbacks to our fave dive Pho place in Rosslyn, VA of all places). The owner whisked Rachel out of her stroller when she started yowling, and paraded her all around the restaurant. She even had a coworker take photos of her holding Rachel (who was cooing with delight). It was very amusing but also a little unsettling. I kept thinking the manager would disappear and walk back to us with a small animal instead of Rachel, and insist that it was ours and that no, she had never seen a baby with us at all. At the same time i was grateful for a few moments to finish my meal in peace, and wondered if she was available for babysitting.

The final victory of the day involved visiting a medical clinic around the corner that provides vaccinations. After many flurries in French back and forth for a great length of time, Mom was able to have them provide Rachel’s 4 month vaccinations, with an English speaking doctor no less. Added bonus- it was all free. (yesssss!) If I had had to navigate this myself I would have walked away in frustration in the first three minutes, but Mom made it happen with her usual grace and charm. Mom rocks!

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